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262 PORT:
are much greater than Tokay, and produce a wine no ways inferior
toit. But Tokay has not always had this honour. Nicholas Olaus,
who wrote in the fixteenth century, does not place the county of
Zemplin, which Tokay is in, amongft thofe which produce the belt
wine; he enumerates only Sermia, Sumeg, Barony, Prefburgh,
Oedenberg, Heves Borfod, Abauivar, Vefprim, and Salad; yet he
{peaks of Szanto and Lifzka, which belong to the Tokay diftria, and
fays * Oppida ‚vini optimi feracia.” It feems that Tokay obtained
this diflinguifhing honour under the government of Rakotzy, through
his keeping here the wine which he received from this diftri&t.
But the wine generally known in foreign countries by the name of
Tokay, is-a particular kind, and made only in {mall quantities: in
different parts ‘of this difuict, and is fold even here very dear; it is
here called Aufbruche, and is»made by mixing a portion of lufcious
half-dried and fhrivelled grapes with the common. ones. As it will
probably be agreeable to moft of my readers to know the whole
economy .of the vineyards of the’ celebrated Tokay, I will devote
the greateft part of the prefent chapter to this fübje&t, and relate the
management of them from the firft planting of the vine to the per¬
fection of .its juice.
“The vines when firft ;planted are ‚cut down at a knot, to within a :
{pan of the foil, and the fuperfluous young fhoots are.cut off every
fpring at the fame place: by this means a head is formed, which
o increafes
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